Bhutanesian: Basically Scouting: Hiking and Camping Report

Introduction

The genesis of the retreat idea emerged organically during the Dzongkhag Scouts Conference on 21st March at Wangduechholing School. Amid discussions focused on operational improvements, a quiet yet pressing need surfaced — the necessity for Scoutleaders to reconnect, away from their habitual educational settings. Thus, the idea of a spiritual and physical retreat at Tharpaling Monastery was born, envisioned as a space not only for repose but for renewal.

[Reference: http://www.bhutanculturalatlas.org/78/culture/sites-structures/monasteries-temples/tharpaling-gonpa]

The programme, under the resonant theme Reunion, Retreat, and Refresh, sought to provide more than logistical interaction — it aimed to reignite the shared purpose, to recalibrate the compass of service. Retreating to the sacred space of Tharpaling was as much a return to the self as it was a withdrawal from routine. The trek routes — from Kikila to Tharpaling and onward to Lamai Gonpa — symbolized a metaphorical passage through fog, elevation, and finally, clarity.

With the gracious approval and support of the Dzongkhag Administration, which bore the financial cost, invitations were dispatched to Scoutleaders across the district. I, Karma Kuenzang Wangdi, serving as both Programme and Planning Coordinator and Dzongkhag Scout Focal Person, undertook this endeavour alongside Scoutleader Sonam Lhamo and the District Commissioner, Sr. DEO Lham Dorji. Our logistical efforts were supported by valley-based Scoutleaders Tshering Dema, Tshencho Dem, and Pema Lhamo, whose contributions to the preparation stage reflected the collaborative spirit of Scouting.

Day One: 25th April 2015 (Saturday)

We convened at Chamkhar, boarding the Chumey School bus bound for Kikila Pass. At first, our group felt disjointed—an ensemble of professionals unaccustomed to each other’s silences—but as the wheels turned, so did our conversations. It reminded us that companionship is often born not in shared destinations, but in the journeying itself.

Upon reaching Kikila, we were welcomed by a fellow Scoutleader from Zungye School. We performed the traditional offerings of serkaem and saang, beseeching the guardians of the land for safe passage. As the fog enveloped the ridge-line trail, it seemed to mimic our own clouded thoughts—uncertainty, fatigue, the unknown. And yet, in that mist, we were drawn closer, resting under trees for lunch, laughing through the cold, and learning that shared discomfort can become the glue of new friendships.

Reaching Tharpaling after a four-and-a-half-hour ascent was more than a physical triumph—it was a symbolic arrival. The sun briefly pierced the clouds as if to affirm our perseverance. At the Dratsang, two colleagues awaited with warm tea—a simple gesture, yet deeply moving. As we listened to choeshey layrim by the Khenpo in the sanctity of the main temple, there was a shared sense of quietude. In that stillness, the purpose of our gathering deepened — to not just escape but to remember what it means to be present.

Day Two: 26th April 2015 (Sunday)

We woke to the rhythmic reverberation of the monks' gong. The discipline of monastic life, with its early hours and unwavering routine, invited us to reflect on our own—hurried, fragmented, and often reactive. The women engaged in social work around the temple, while the men ferried firewood. There was an unspoken meditation in this work; in lifting logs, we seemed to lift our burdens, even momentarily.

Our pilgrimage around the holy precincts began after breakfast. Standing before the statue of Longchen Rabjam at Zhug-Thri, encased in glass, we could see the twin valleys of Gaytsa and Chamkhar below. Some prayed, others took photos—but everyone, in their own way, was trying to grasp the enormity of lineage and legacy. We climbed higher, hoisting Luung-Dhars atop the snowy ridge, even as snowflakes danced around us like tiny blessings. The higher we climbed, the quieter it became, until even our thoughts began to whisper.

The change in weather caused us to abandon our next summit, a subtle reminder that plans must always bend to nature’s will. Descending to Zambala Lhakhang and Choe-Drag, our prayers became heavier—offering butter lamps for the victims of the Nepal earthquake. Tragedy from afar had reached our hearts through this simple act of remembrance. In those flickering flames, we saw both life’s fragility and its capacity for resilience.

Evening choeshey layrim returned us to silence, not of exhaustion, but of introspection.

Day Three: 27th April 2015 (Monday)

With renewed vigour, we resumed firewood transport, our routine now made familiar by repetition. After breakfast, I led a session on updated scouting drills — an effort to sow discipline into rhythm, but also a reminder that even tradition must evolve. What struck me was the attentive gaze of the Scoutleaders—each one a mirror of dedication, shaped by different schools but united in one ideal.

The waste-picking campaign that followed carried a dual purpose — to clean and to confront. Each plastic bottle and noodle wrapper was a reminder of what we leave behind, often unconsciously. Cleaning the slopes was more than community service; it was a silent vow to tread lighter, to teach better. The monks joined us in the afternoon—a beautiful convergence of service and spirituality.

Transporting waste to Kikila, aided by a passing pickup, felt like an act of quiet victory. As we sipped tea with the Dratsang monks, we exchanged not just songs and yells, but trust. And in the evening, gathered around the campfire beneath a sky scattered with drizzle, we sang—not to perform, but to remember who we are when we are together.

Day Four: 28th April 2015 (Tuesday)

We began with a final visit to the oldest chambers of the temple. Dusty corners, ancient murals, and a scent of incense blended to create a sacred stillness. Packing our belongings, cleaning our rooms—it felt ritualistic, as if preparing not to leave, but to carry something forward.

Today’s descent followed the Lamai Gonpa trail, winding through overgrown thickets and layers of fog. Occasionally, rooftops broke the monotony of trees—a subtle reminder of our return to the world. Yet, with every downward step, there lingered a yearning to linger longer in retreat. Nearing Jakar, the clouds parted and sunlight returned—as if the journey had come full circle, from obscurity to clarity.

At Jakar School, a warm lunch awaited. We sat together, no longer strangers. The pickup truck bearing our luggage arrived belatedly, but the weight it carried was far lighter than what we had arrived with. What we bore now were memories, wisdom, and a deeper respect for the quiet lessons that only the mountains, monasteries, and mist can teach.

Conclusion

Three nights at Tharpaling Monastery etched more than footprints into its trails—they marked a shared passage through devotion, labour, reflection, and companionship. In the simple acts of carrying firewood, hoisting prayer flags, or teaching scouting drills, we rediscovered a sacred rhythm—a melody that harmonises purpose with presence.

Though our paths would diverge, the promise of reunion during the November Scouts Rally glimmered like a lantern on a future trail—each of us now carrying within us the stillness of Tharpaling, like a seed waiting for the next bloom.

Acknowledgement

We extend our deepest gratitude to those whose support shaped this retreat into a lived reality:

Officiating Dasho Dzongdag of Bumthang Dzongkhag Administration, for the administrative approval, financial support, and logistics assistance.
Principal, Chumey MSS, for providing transportation that bridged the distance between our plans and their fulfillment.
Khenpo and monks of Tharpaling Shedra, especially the monks who nourished us with warmth and meals.
Sr. DEO Lham Dorji, whose vision and presence turned an idea into embodiment.
Scoutleader Sonam Lhamo, whose leadership and foresight guided this initiative with grace.
Scoutleaders Tshering Dema, Tshencho Dem, and Pema Lhamo, for their silent but essential groundwork.
All 18 Scoutleaders and 2 Community-Based Scouts from Kuenphen Troop, for breathing life into this programme through your wholehearted participation.